[tNguyen]

I have not done much this winter other than a couple of conditioning hikes to Annette Lake. I was trying too hard to learn rock climbing and wound up hurting my knee and pinky toe. But I think it does help me with ice climbing. Having done a couple of trips with guide last year, I planned to try it on my own this year. Still, before wandering out my own, I hired a guide again on MLK weekend this year. Unfortunately, by the time I got to Bozeman the temperature dropped to -22. We managed to climb some but only easy stuff. Trevor and I got to Bozeman on Sat. He did his school homework, and I prepared gear. We hit the trail early on Sun and got to Genesis I at 8am. No one was around. The ice looked so nice despite warm temperature. It took us a little while to set up TR. We climbed a few reps mostly low WI3. We later on switched route with another party, and I got to lead the far left route of GI. I think it is called Willow Gully. The ice was clean.

Willow Gully WI2

I was hoping for a better second day, but the forecast called for heavy snow in the Canyon. So instead of heading straight to the Mummy where I took a class last year we stopped by Amphitheater, thinking of a retreating plan if the weather gets worse. Again, ice was nice. Just as the book said, I saw the scramble route on the left to the top to setup TR. But after taking a closer look I decided to lead the far left edge roughly WI2. It was not hard but without a warmup climb my old joints did not like it. I setup TR to a nice WI3-. Trevor did not make it the first time as he spent too much time poking the ice at the lower bulge. Still early morning the ice was hard. I TR once then belayed Trevor again. He made it the second time.

Far left of Amphitheater

Trevor on the way up

It was 11-ish, and the weather was still relatively calm. We decided to head to the the Mummy. I somehow thought I took the class at Mummy I last year, and we were trying to go there. But then I realized we were heading to Mummy II. We turned around and headed to Mummy I. Turned out I had not been to Mummy I. The ice did not look so good. I wanted to head to that same place hoping to lead the right variation route. Back and forth and another party got in front of us on the way to Mummy II. Mummy II looked so much different this year. Way more beautiful than last year. I asked the ladies to make sure there was an anchor at the right variation. One of the ladies showed me exactly the anchor location. But again, the whole thing looked harder than last year. Snow started falling, and I felt intimidated, even the right variation. The ladies seemed ready to take the main route which is WI3+.

The ladies seemed ready to take the main route, picture taken by Trevor

Mummy II looked so much different than last year, clean & beautiful.

Right variation also looked harder than last year. I probably could lead if I was 100% healthy.

I saw a boot path to the right of Mummy II. I told Trevor to relax and enjoy the view (his first time seeing WI falls), I followed the booth path as I saw some features. A couple of hundred feet up I saw a short gorgeous WI4. Next to it was a WI2 route. I had no information about this route but believed I could lead it. I took a cord from Trevor. I placed three screws and got to the tree. I found a rap sling but was old. I built a new one and put two rap rings on it. I was excited to rap down to send Trevor up. He bailed after 30ft or so because his hands were wet and cold. It took me so long to build the anchor because I did not feel safe to put weight on that old anchor. I was hugging the tree without secured footing. He waited for too long and got wet. Heavy snow was coming down. I forgot to see if it was possible to scramble to the top of the WI4 on the left. There was a big tree right at the center top. I took a look again when I got home. Looks like Mountain Project listed this route as Frigid Aire WI4. Winter Dance by Joe Josephson does not cover this route. I am a little surprised!

Up and right of Mummy II

Met a camper with a nice camper on his Toyota Tacoma

Ice climbing is new to me, but I love it. I find climbing easy stuff on my own is way more fun than climbing fancy stuff with guide

[Now I Fly]

That looks like so much fun! In the mid-eighties we climbed a few nice ice routes near Vantage, Banks Lake area too. Desert Ice is always fun. Steep.

[ZenithZephyr]

Ice climbing is truly a challenging adventure, more so when the weather turns unpredictable. Understanding your boundaries and changing your plans to fit them is wise. Also, discovering different paths brings more excitement to the experience. Keep staying safe out there and enjoying the climb!