[Bernardo]

Summary: Walked around Snoqualmie Mountain via Alpental, Snow Lake, Rock Creek Trail, Middle Fork Trail, Goldmyer Hot Springs, old Cascade Crest Trail to Red Pass, Commonwealth Basin and Guy Peak-Cave Ridge saddle. I enjoyed this trip because it offered many natural wonders, beautiful terrain and a great physical challenge. Approx. 8 hours, 19 miles and 6000 feet of elevation gain. The Long Version: Ever since I first looked over Red Pass, I’ve wanted to follow the route of the old Cascade Crest Trail down to the Middle Fork Valley. This hike was designed to accomplish that objective and entailed travelling over four saddles/passes to complete a loop around Snoqualmie Mountain. Due to some responsibilities in town I got a late start, but this was fortuitous as the weather improved later in the day. The first leg of the journey was from the Alpental TH to Snow Lake to the junction with the Rock Creek Trail. The first saddle is on the ridge dividing Alpental and Snow Lake and the second separates Snow Lake from Rock Creek Valley. I was caught short here when a young couple asked me for some Benadryl, and I wasn’t able to produce any. I did provide an insect sting relief towelette from my first aid kit. Although I passed quite a few people on the way up, Snow Lake itself was perfectly quiet and I saw no one else until I reached Goldmyer Hot Springs.

Snow Lake before the clouds lifted

Start of Rock Creek Trail near Snow Lake

The Rock Creek Trail starts on the north of Snow Lake and drops 2500 feet in about 4.3 miles down to the Middle Fork Trail. It is not hard to follow (except in one brushy area) and offers a great view of Rock Creek Falls and the deep valley as well as serene forest areas. The trail shows signs of significant engineering work and must have been a big project once. Unfortunately, there are some parts on rocky, sun exposed slopes that have become very brushy and my pants and boots became completely soaked passing through these areas. Hikers need to pay attention for the route in the brushy parts, but once the trail enters the trees it is very nice. Along the way there are many great views of Rock Creek Falls. The wall at the end of Rock Creek Valley is like a giant dam keeping Snow Lake from emptying in a mad rush into the Middle Fork Valley. There was not even a single foot print visible anywhere along this trail.

Looking down the valley from near the top of the Rock Creek Trail

First signs of fall

Picture shows both the engineering of the Rock Creek Trail and brush problem

Rock Creek Falls

Fungus on the Rock Creek Trail

Sign at the intersection of Rock Creek Trail and Middle Fork Trail

From the intersection of the Rock Creek Trail with the Middle Fork Trail it is 2.4 miles to Burnt Boot Creek. This section of the Middle Fork Trail is in excellent condition, travels through forest, crosses several streams, but never offers a view of the Middle Fork River. Mountain bikers have worn a nice smooth tread on the old railroad grade that makes for easy walking. During a short break for lunch, I wrung out my socks, put my boots back on, and then I repeated the process in an attempt to lower my water content. Although my boots remained wet, I succeeded in eliminating the sloshing. My standard issue “Light Hiker” REI socks work great even when wet. I am always impressed by the miracle of wool. Of course, I should have brought high gaiters. After making my way along the Middle Fork Trail, I passed one sign and then another announcing I had arrived at Burnt Book Creek. On the south-west side of the creek, I noticed a faint trail heading up-stream on top of a log, but I wanted to stop at the Goldmyer Hot Springs briefly so I proceeded to cross the creek on a bridge of logs and quickly reached the caretakers’ cabin. There were quite a few campers on the property and I passed a few with mountain bikes. From the friendly caretakers I learned that the faint trail I had seen was the route to Red Pass and that you need reservations to soak on weekends.

Sign on the north-east bank of Burnt Boot Creek

Bridge across Burnt Boot Creek as seen from the north-east bank

Sign near the bottom of Red Pass (old CCT) trail

The route up to Red Pass gains 3500 feet and is in better condition than the Rock Creek Trail. There were a few blowdowns, but no navigation challenges. Just when I thought it would be easy, if steep, going all the way to Red Pass, I had to go through a brushy area which left me completely soaked from the waist down for the second time. By this time the sun was shining so I didn’t mind and soon I came to a high and open viewpoint where I rested, ate a second lunch, and dried out a bit while looking at Iceberg Falls, the splendor of Goat Creek Valley and big peaks in the distance. I would like to report that I was thinking deep thoughts about creation at this point, but mostly I was focused on getting food and water into my system.

Scenery from the CCT

Garfield from the old CCT

Iceberg Falls

Mount Thompson

Iceberg Falls, etc.

Red Mountain from the north

The old Cascade Crest Trail stays in forest with occasional views until near the pass. After a short stretch of Alpine terrain it traverses on talus under cliffs to reach the steep gully on the north side of the pass. I would recommend that one try to follow the switch backing path up the gully rather than charge up the middle. By doing this, I was able to make it to the pass without causing the series of small rockslides that would have been inevitable if I had not made use of the serpentine route.

The north side of Red Pass

At Red Pass, I enjoyed the sun for a few minutes and had the luxury of a few deep thoughts, before heading down into the Commonwealth Basin. I met a hiker couple at the pass who were looking for a route up Red Mountain and I advised them in response to their query to drop lower and try the south face.

Looking down to I-90 from Red Pass

Looking down on the north side of Red Pass

Scenery from Red Pass

As seen from Red Pass

The late afternoon sun dried me out completely and by the time I was heading through the Commonwealth Basin I had regained my vim and vigor. I had to decide whether to go all the way to the PCT TH and then back on the road to Alpental or whether to follow the path I had heard about to the saddle between Guye Peak and Cave Ridge. When I got to the bottom ford of Commonwealth creek (first one on the way up on the old path), I elected not to ford but to follow the path along the north-west bank that an anonymous hiker had told me several years ago would lead to Guye Peak. This trail quickly became a slight path that seemed to trace the lowest route through a swamp. The tread was worn deep in many places and inevitably full of water. I quickly was drenched for the third time. I hadn’t been expecting that, but I didn’t care much because there was nothing to be done about it and I was almost home. The trail offered some views of the big cliffs on the east side of Guye Peak. At times the tread temporarily disappeared. As I made my way up the dark side of the mountain, like I had on the Red Pass trail, I experienced several false saddles before I could tell from the shining sun on the trees ahead that this time there was no higher intervening ground.

4 Trails intersecting on the Guye Peak Saddle

I had seen the spot before where four trails meet below Guye Peak (to Guy Peak, Cave Ridge, Alpental and Commonwealth Basin) and I confirmed on my arrival at the saddle that my current course was indeed the one that headed east from this point. Given all the water, this trail would be better used during dry periods or in winter. I didn’t see any side trails, but maybe there is a by-pass that avoids the swampy part. The trip up and down Guye Peak required the most route finding of the trip. A couple times I stopped and backtracked a bit to get on the right path. From the four corners intersection, my fourth pass of the day, it was a steep descent down a very rocky trail to Alpental. On the way down, I followed a path into a gully that I knew would go down to the road, but I didn’t see enough wear. Reluctantly, I turned around and took some painful steps uphill and sure enough saw a more travelled path that I had missed that was the correct route. That little uphill investment probably saved me a bunch of pain and suffering. The journey was over. It had been a great day and civilization now beckoned. I love the sound sleep I get after a great hike with the imagery of the trail fresh in mind. Epilogue It’s nice to travel on seldom visited trails, but if these trails don’t get more use and attention they will cease to exist. The old CC trail is in good shape, but parts of the Rock Creek trail need work if it is to survive in the future. The Forest Service seems overwhelmed in that it cannot meet its basic maintenance responsibilities. But what can be done about this situation? My preference is to travel longer distances without camping gear, but one could camp at Goldmyer or Dutch Miller TH and break this route into a two day trip. Other variations include one way trips ending at the Middle Fork TH. This journey is highly rewarding because it offers a physical challenge as well as great natural beauty. Experienced hikers prepared for a challenge will love these trails. Approximate Timeline 10:30 Depart TH 11:30 Junction Rock Creek Trail (1 hr) 12:51 Junction Middle Fork Trail (1 hr 21’) 1:47Arrive Goldmyer (56’) 1:55 Depart Goldmyer (8’) 4:08 Red Pass (2 hr 13’) 5:55 Guy Peak Pass (1 hr 47’) 6:30 Arrive TH (35’) (Total time 8 hrs approximately 19 miles, 6100 elevation gain)

[yukon222]

Great loop - I appreciate the fine photos of seldom seen sides of Red, etc since the loss of driving access to the upper part of the Middle Fork. Glad the brush soakings didn't dampen your spirits too much. Thanks for the TR!

[Kat]

Did you happen to notice if there is still a trail down to the river where the Rock Creek trail meets the MFK trail? Several years ago, we drove past Dingford and made the crossing there to start the Rock Creek trail - there was even still a sign there:

RockCreekSign2

[bdrkayaker]

Sounds like an awesome trip. Pysched to see a report of the Rock Creek and Red Pass trails. Those shots of the Iceberg outflow waterfall and surroundings are great shots - so tantalizing! Next time I head up the MF road I'll pack some heat (in the form of clippers that is). Seems like a lot of trails up there are trending to the wild side.

[Bernardo]

Kat, I didn't notice the trail going down to the river, but I hope to return to this area soon and will look for it and report back. Unless that sign was on high ground, it probably was washed away in the great flood. Thanks for the information and picture. bdrkayaker, You keep that up and we'll have to move your comments over to the clipper thread. Yukon222, I'm looking forward to the opening of the road to Dingford. That will be a big improvement over the current situation with regard to access.

[lopper]

Thanks for the report and pics.... it is good to read about the Red Pass CCT back in action. bdrkkayaker -- has the right idea. Hikers packing heat is how that stretch of scenic trail got reclaimed from oceans of underbrush.

[JimK]

Nice report. That's a trip I've thought about. Much thanks to the loppers of the world who keep those old trails hikeable.

[huron]

Another circumnavigation. Nice